THE LUXURY TRAVEL
MAGAZINE FOR INDEPENDENT
TRAVELLERS

You might think, as you slip through the aquamarine waters of Halong Bay, passing giant limestone formations and gazing out at the breathtaking beauty on all sides, that you’ve fallen asleep and drifted into a magical dream world. I certainly did, and from the faces of the other passengers on board, I wasn’t alone.

That said, it is quite a journey to get to Halong Bay, so by the time you finally arrive you’ll probably be wide awake. And raring to go. An airconditioned minibus picked us up from our hotel in Hanoi (the main city in the north of Vietnam) around 8.30am, and from there it was a three and a half hour drive to Halong Bay, through the outskirts of the city and vast tracts of rice paddies, all being worked by industrious Vietnamese farmers in traditional hats.

At the edge of Halong Bay we noticed hundreds (if not thousands) of tourist boats preparing to set sail, and breathed a sigh of relief as the minibus kept driving, past the scrum of tourist boats and on for another twenty minutes, till we reached a much quieter, more private harbour.

Here is the beauty of the Indochina Junk Company: they have attained special permission to travel a different route to all the other tourist boats, letting the six-hundred-strong crowd (no exaggeration) ply the same jam-packed route through the main area of Halong Bay while the Red Dragon, Lagoon Explorer and Prince junks of the Indochina company travel through Bai Tu Long Bay, just as spectacular as neighbouring Halong, but without the hordes of people and boats ruining the view.

It’s a distinction that seems somewhat important from land, but absolutely essential once you’re out on the water. The Red Dragon is a handsome boat, an all-wooden junk modeled on a Vietnamese pirate ship from the 17th century. The moment we stepped on board we felt as cavalier and excited as the pirates of old, and it wasn’t long before we’d decided that there really is no other life worth living except that on the sea. Of course, that’s only because as soon as we’d settled into our extremely comfortable cabin (with a view out onto the bay, of course), we were treated to a seafood feast – course after course of shrimp, fish, scallops and squid, all beautifully prepared and brought out in a seemingly endless succession. Then there were a few hours of leisure, time to soak up the sun on one of three sun decks, and breathe in the incredible peace on all sides. With nothing but the quiet hum of the engine, barely discernible in the background, the lap of the water against the hull, and a light breeze blowing, it’s impossible not to relax. Especially seeing as everywhere, as far as the eye can see, there are these islands of wonder on the horizon. Hundreds and thousands of them, fading into the distance. There are 1969 of these karsts in Halong Bay itself, 3000 in the greater area, and more than 89% of them are made from limestone. Some have scatterings of trees, others are bare, and they range in height from 50m to 200m. But they have one thing in common: they are awe-inspiring up close. There are also four entirely indigenous plants in the area – the Halong Ginger, Halong Palm Tree, Halong Cycad and Halong orchids.

Before we got too relaxed, though, it was time for an excursion into a cave on one of the islands, a beautifully lit cavern full of stalactites and stalagmites. And then – my favourite part of the day – we went kayaking, led by our guide, around the karsts themselves. What an incredible experience! To get up close to these natural wonders with nothing but the water between you, and drift amongst the islands as the sun begins to set… It’s one of those experiences we’ll never forget. A once in a lifetime memory.

Back on board there’s just time for a sundowner, as the boat drops anchor and the water turns from aquamarine to pink and orange and then silver, still as a mirror, shining as the light fades and the karsts loom out of the gathering dusk. A three-quarter moon casts a path on the sea as the boat slowly slips down a pre-ordained pathway. All is still and stunning. It’s like being allowed into a sacred world.

And then it’s time for dinner.
Although ‘dinner’ doesn’t seem to be enough of a word to encompass the entertainment of the next few hours – an array of food is brought out, from fresh crab to grilled pork to sea snail spring rolls and roasted chicken – set amidst some of the most extraordinary carvings I have ever seen. An eagle, a sea dragon and a replica of the Red Dragon (complete with candlelight shining through the windows!), all carved out of pumpkins, with shaved carrot for sails. Amazing stuff. Although by this stage there’s very little that will amaze you – that’s the beauty of this 24-hour suspension of reality. It’s as if everyone on board the Red Dragon is trying to make this the most memorable day of your life. And they’re succeeding.

Because, in the end, it’s the crew that will really blow you away. Our guide, Mr Tuyen, was friendly, funny, extremely well-spoken and very informed about everything to do with Halong Bay. The waiters were polite and well trained, the staff as a whole seemed authentically happy to meet us. After dinner, the whole crew (waiters, captain, electrician and chefs) came upstairs to the dining room to sing for us – clapping away and singing at the tops of their voices about Vietnam, Hanoi and even Ho Chi Minh. Then a few of the guests contributed songs or magic tricks, and a cake appeared, as if by magic, for one of the guests’ birthdays. It was an evening full of laughter and jokes and song, as the moon shone serenely over the boat, and the water continued along its quiet way.

The camaraderie continued in the morning, as everyone emerged bleary eyed for a 7am breakfast. All meals are taken communally, ensuring that by the end of the day all ten guests are firm friends with each other. After a quick breakfast it was time to visit a local floating village, Vung Vieng – an extraordinary collection of families living in homes that are half-boat and half-house. We were taken on local bamboo boats to visit their fish farm, float past their homes, and (the highlight for me) visit their school.

Because the Indochina Junk Company doesn’t just offer luxury cruises with great food, beautiful boats and excellent staff (although for many that would be more than enough). They also offer a way to give back to the community. Most tour operators zoom in and out of Halong Bay without a second thought, but the Indochina Company have paired up to set two important projects in motion. The first is the primary school, ensuring that the next generation of floating villagers is able to read and write, and can choose whether or not they wish to stay in the village or move to the mainland. Until now, education has been a scarce commodity in Halong Bay, but by partnering with the One Laptop Per Child initiative to bring interactive education to the children, school attendance has shot up in recent years.

The company also has an environmental campaign called ‘For A Green Halong Bay’ where they encourage the locals to dispose of their waste in a responsible way (not just by throwing it into the water). The project is based in Vung Vieng fishing village, and started when Indochina handed out 50 plastic rubbish bins, and a promise to buy rubbish from the villagers, paying them a set amount per kilogram. So far it has been a huge success – there is no rubbish whatsoever floating in the bay, which is a far cry from how things were a year ago. The project also hopes to replace the Styrofoam floaters underneath most of the houses with plastic barrels, as the Styrofoam breaks up over time and pollutes not only the bay, but the fish and other marine life who mistakenly eat it. And, of course, there is job creation in the village as the locals are the ones taking us on boat rides and creating small handmade souvenirs to sell in the (floating) gift shop.

It’s this spirit of care that permeates every aspect of the Red Dragon cruising experience. They have taken care with all the small details of the boat. They take care of their passengers. And they care for their environment.

With all this on offer, as well as an extraordinarily exciting cruise itinerary and some of the most beautiful scenery you’ll ever see, you may well feel as if the Red Dragon experience is something of a dream. Only this is one dream you won’t want to wake up from.