THE LUXURY TRAVEL
MAGAZINE FOR INDEPENDENT
TRAVELLERS

Landing in Christchurch, spend a day or two taking in the atmosphere of the South Island’s largest city. Christchurch is a compact, elegant city with an extensive array of attractions just minutes from its center. The Avon River snakes through the city, parting restaurants, bars and cafes. It is also home to the Arts Center of Christchurch, the Willowbank Wildlife Reserve, and the Canterbury Museum, as well as a myriad of parks and gardens, some of them world class. Christchurch is said to be the site of the first English settlement. The town has a quaint Victorian feel and one can sense the loyalty and admiration for Mother England in the architecture, the gardens and the accents of its inhabitants.

In the South Island, one might continue to experience the luxury lodges, or opt for a more down to earth (not to mention, affordable) visit with the owner-operators of several of the Heritage & Character Inn of New Zealand

Our South Island Heritage & Character Inn of New Zealand experience begins with the Weston House located in town, across from Hagley Park, just on the periphery of the main shopping streets. For those of you unfamiliar with the Heritage Inn they are a lovely alternative to the luxury lodge circuit should your budget be something less than $1,200 NZ per night. While smaller, and without some of the services and features of the more well known lodges, they are still a Qualmark five star and thus every bit as elegant as their big sister lodges. More importantly, a stay in a Heritage Inn guarantees you a unique and down-to-earth experience due to the fact that the establishments are owner operated.

The Weston House is owned by Len and Stephanie May. It was built in 1923 for prominent Christchurch Lawyer, George Weston, designed by Cecil Woods in Neo-Georgian style. If you're American, picture Thomas Jefferson living there. Stephanie is quite a character and had multiple linguistic expressions that set me at ease. On my inquiring what time cocktail hour would begin, she responded, ‘wine o'clock’ and answering my questions regarding elements of her background that prepared her for the Bed & Breakfast business, she explained that she had a ‘black-belt in shopping’. In actual fact, she and Len come from a strong service background having both been, in their past lives, pharmacists who owned and operated their own businesses.

Their mansion has been transformed to accommodate two sets of guests at double occupancy. The Peterborough Room has a king-size bed and ensuite bathroom; the Hagley Room has a Queen-size bed also with ensuite bathroom. Guests share the common areas – a lovely little library, a cozy living room, which serves as a meeting place for pre-dinner cocktails and breakfast. Stephanie and Len are great company both sporting the dry sense of humor and wit, which the Kiwis are famous for, but which is especially enjoyable when it is expressed with warmth and style. Kiwi breakfast is English style, but lacks the heaviness associated with the English version. My eggs benedict was made with farm fresh eggs and topped with basil and lemon zest. Absolutely delightful.

Jack Tregear is quite the historian and will give you a driving tour of town, complete with every detail you ever wanted to know about the history of Christchurch, including his great-grandfather's convict heritage.

Dinner at Il Pescatore across the street at The George was divine. The mood is minimalist with white tablecloths, light wood walls, ivory ceilings and walls with pewter sconces creating a romantic setting. There is a six course dégustation menu for 130 NZD which traverses caramelized scallops to a double New Zealand lamb chop, with fondant potato and confit shallots. I enjoyed the Beef Wellington which was accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke, potato gratin, Swiss chard and horseradish foam. A Villa Maria Reserve 2004 Marlborough does nicely as a pairing. A side dish of courgettes, roasted corn and butter beans were melt-in-my-mouth delicious.