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Dar es Salaam doesn’t have the allure of say, Cape Town or Marrakech. The capital city of Tanzania tends to be one of the spots people use as a stopover en route to the bush and, as a result, has the laidback and comfortable air of a place with nothing much to live up to. What you see is what you get and, surprisingly, it has quite a bit of nice stuff to see.

The harbour is lovely – where dhows and tankers play equal parts in the parade – as is the thoroughfare along it’s edge, the people are friendly, it’s safe, there’s the Kivukoni fish market on the seafront and a couple of unspoilt beaches too. Add to that a few good spots to rest your head.

The Kilimanjaro Kempinski or ‘The Kili’ as it’s fondly referred to is one of the best. Perched on the promenade overlooking the harbour, this slick sophisticate wouldn’t be out of place in capitals with a capital C. That it is located in the sultry shabby chic of Dar though makes it much more interesting – like a supermodel in Soho. The rooms are a study in very well-executed minimalism – unless you have the Kilimanjaro Suite where things take a glitzy turn – and if you choose one that is sea facing, have generous glass frontage and fabulous views. Service is pleasant, the food – particularly at their asian restaurant – is good, the pool is downright sexy and there’s a spa and juice bar that are also worth a look in.

Level 8, a bar and lounge on the 8th floor, could teach a few well-known watering holes (in cities that is) a thing or two. Think gloss black and buttery cream décor, elegant nooks, low tables, good lighting, a wooden deck if you fancy going al fresco, floor-to-ceiling glass and a harbour view. The drinks are meticulously mixed and served in design savvy stemware, the snacks – banana and sweet potato chips made on site – are delicious and whoever chooses the music knows what they’re doing too. Add to that the unassuming crowd who actually converse instead of scoping out the room despite the attractive options and good musicians later on.

Watching the boats go by up here may bring your proximity to Zanzibar to mind. The Spice Island famous for its beautiful Stone Town and gorgeous beaches is a mere four-hour (express) ferry ride or a 15-minute flight away. It’s possible to do a day trip, particularly if you’re flying, but you will be pressed for time, so arrange a guided tour of Stone Town with your tour operator beforehand.

Lunch at the Serena Inn on the beach and be sure to stop in at Emerson and Green for the quirky décor and rooftop terrace. Don’t expect the full Zanzibar experience in a few hours though, you’ll need more time for that. Flights to the bush more often than not touch down on the island so try to work a few days here into your schedule instead. If you only have one day, give it to Dar – lazing about at the Kempinski alone will keep you occupied.





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