Udaipur and the Taj Lake Palace
Udaipur, the jewel of Rajasthan, has a regal feeling even in the streets and marketplace, a sense of pride surrounding every shop and square. A rose petal welcome was our introduction to the gracious hospitality of the Taj Lake Palace, which sits on a private island in the middle of Lake Pichola.
Text Denise Hummel
Photography Steven
Hummel & Courtesy of The Taj
Lake
Palace
Published 30th
June 2007
Our final destination was Udaipur and the gracious hospitality
of the Taj Lake Palace. The hotel sits on a private island
in the middle of Lake Pichola - actually the hotel 'is'
the private island, taking up every square inch of it.
It sits like a gleaming white marble carving in the middle
of the lake, and only becomes real as you approach by
private boat. Years ago during a particularly bad drought,
the lake dried up completely and guests traversed the
lake-bed on camel. Floating across to the dock, I found
that almost impossible to envisage. When we arrived,
we were greeted by a splendid looking gentlemen, absolutely
statuesque with a bushy moustache turned up at the edges,
dressed in red and gold brocade and carrying a red silk
umbrella with gold tassels to shield guests from the
sun, as they leave the shaded boat and walk the few steps
to the air-conditioned hotel, with its open courtyards
and scalloped, hand-painted archways. In those few paces,
we experienced the most romantic welcome I could endeavor
to imagine. It felt like we were Maharajas and Maharanis
of years past, as we walked across the red carpet to
the glassed entry of the hotel with rose petals cascading
down from the rooftop. If I could have frozen that moment
in time, or at least video-taped it, I would have. It
was the ultimate in royal Indian hospitality and I won't
be forgetting it for a long time. Dinner that night was
enhanced by traditional Rajasthani dancers and music
in the courtyard.
The hotel is difficult to describe. There are many open spaces with cusped,
hand-painted archways, and a man-made lily pond creates a particularly tranquil
spot, in the center courtyard, around which most of the activity, rooms, and
restaurants revolve. While the hotel was once the home of a royal family, it
does not have the feeling of being retro-fitted to suit the needs of guests.
This particular family must have entertained quite a bit, because it is as if
the building were purpose built to suit the purpose for which it is now employed.
Our suite, the Mayur Mahal (Peacock Palace) had a rich interior embellished with
peacock motifs and colored glass panels that captured the sunlight, bathing the
suite in a kaleidoscope of colors.
The city of Udaipur is still very much a traditional Rajput town, and was founded
by Maharana Udai Singh, in 1567. It was obvious to us why it is called the jewel
of Rajasthan as it has a regal feeling even in the streets and marketplace, a
sense of pride and tender care surrounding every shop and square. Our sightseeing
tour included the Sahelion-ki-Bari, also known as the 'Garden of the Maids of
Honor' where elephant statues stood vigil over huge fountains, the water supplied
by Lake Pichola. We also visited the City Palace, poised over Lake Pichola and
the museum that it houses, filled with examples of royal attire, arms, and traditional
miniature paintings. The Jagdish Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, has an exterior
that is exquisitely and ornately carved with scenes of elephants, humans and
gods in historical and spiritual context. Inside we were lucky enough to be able
to watch from the door as a prayer session was taking place. A visual and auditory
splendor, as we watched women in the bright colors of Rajasthani saris and listened
to the haunting chanting that characterizes Hindu prayers.
Our suite at the Taj Lake Palace had an immense terrace with lounge chairs and a glider, overlooking the lake and the City Palace. There we spent several sunrises and sunsets listening to the morning and evening prayers, the sounds of which came from the surrounding villages and met somewhere in the middle of the lake below our terrace. It became evident to me in Udaipur, if it wasn't already, that the spirit of India resides in the intensity of its people, their respect for three-hundred and thirty million Gods, their connection with every sacred cow that survives daily traffic encounters, and their relative inner peace when blessed with the basic necessities of life. I had been a Maharani for a few weeks, and Steve, a Maharaja, and I only hope that in one or two of the two hundred and sixty-five kingdoms where the real ones reigned, they appreciated their twentieth wedding anniversaries, half as much as we did.
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THE TAJ LAKE PALACE, UDAIPUR
Style Former palace of the royal family of Udaipur.
Setting A private island.
Why you'll love it Absolutely exquisite architecture, like
a gleaming white jewel in the center of the lake.
Good to know There is shadow-dancing most nights at the far
end of the courtyard behind the lily pond.
Dining Enjoy fine dining at Neel Kamal, overlooking the hotel's
lily pond, with a selection of Rajasthani fare.
Address PO Box No 5, Lake Pichola, Udaipur 313 001.
Telephone Number +91 294 252 8800
Fax Number +91 294 252 8700
Email address lakepalace.udaipur@tajhotels.com
Website www.tajhotels.com/taj-lake-palace
How to Get There Flight from Jodhpur.
Tour Guide Arun Acharya.
Tel +91
294
252 4964
Email aroonacharya@hotmail.com
Greaves Local Agent Rajasthan Tours, Hotel Green View, Lake
Palace Road, Udaipur.
Tel +91 294 252 5777
Email navneet.mathur@rajtours.net
Shopping
GAE (Gem Arts Emporium)
Fine selection of gold and silver jewelry.
Address 119 Saheli Marg.
Opposite Sahelly on Ki Bari,
Udaipur 313 004.
Tel +91 294 252 9020 (Sunil Dhaddha)
Email gem_arts@hotmail.com
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