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Most of the time, if somebody recommends a hotel it is purely based on opinion. ‘This was a great place to stay,’ they tell you; and if you trust their opinion, you listen. The Hotel das Cataratas, however, is quite simply the only place to stay if you want to see Iguassu Falls in Brazil. Not literally, of course, the nearby town of Foz do Iguacu is littered with hotels; but if you want to have the ultimate Iguassu Falls experience, you have to stay at Hotel das Cataratas.

And that’s not an opinion, it’s a fact.

You see, Hotel das Cataratas is the only hotel in Brazil inside the Iguassu National Park, a 185 000 hectare forestry reserve, and a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site. Oh yes, and home to the extraordinary Iguassu Falls. Staying at Hotel das Cataratas, you are literally across the road from the falls. A stone’s throw away. The sound of the tumbling water lulls you to sleep at night. You can see the falls from your bedroom (if you’re lucky), and the restaurant or bar as you sip sundowners. It’s impossible to get any closer than this unless you’re willing to sleep in the National Park (which isn’t advisable, seeing as there are still a handful of jaguars and pumas roaming free).

As you can tell, I was quite blown away. As is every guest to the hotel – it takes some time to get used to the fact that there’s an epic waterfall in your garden.

Once you do get used to it, though, the Hotel das Cataratas has a whole host of other delights on offer. Orient Express took over management of the hotel two years ago, and since then there have been massive renovations under way. Two of the three wings are now entirely renovated, the third will be completed later this year. Renovation doesn’t seem a strong enough word in this case, though, perhaps a more appropriate term would be ‘reconstructive surgery’. The rooms are gorgeous, decked out in the same Portuguese colonial style that permeates the hotel, with paintings of local flora by Ludmila Demonte, and curtains covered in a motif of flowers found in the jungle. The heavy wooden furniture is certified softwood, and eco-friendly, and the fresh orchids bring a touch of the wild from the outside in. Bathrooms are adorned with white marble and striking blue and white Portuguese tiles, and the shampoos and moisturizers are all Brazilian, deliciously scented and locally made.

Keeping things Brazilian is a priority with the Hotel das Cataratas, and it’s an emphasis that shines through in every aspect of the place. The two restaurants – the Ipe Bar and Grill and the Itaipu Restaurant, offer a wide range of Brazilian dishes with an International twist, producing exciting, innovative meals that are not quite like anything you’ve ever eaten before.

Breakfast is served buffet-style in the Ipe Grill, right next to the swimming pool and surrounded by semi-tropical plants and gardens, as is a Brazilian barbeque every night. Choose from an array of traditional cuts of meat like rump steak, leg of lamb, pork sausages and chicken hearts, freshly roasted on the grill and accompanied by a choice of interesting salads and hot dishes. Or go for the a la carte option in Itaipu, where Brazilian gastronomy gets a modern makeover, and you can watch the sun set over the Iguassu Falls. Unforgettable.

The tours on offer are pretty unforgettable, too. Take advantage of the fact that tourists aren’t allowed into the park before 9am, and explore the path to the Falls without any interruptions in the early morning light… Wilson, the hotel’s biologist, will walk with you and explain the various flora and fauna you see. Or go for a more adventurous option and take part in the very popular Macuco Safari trip, where boats zoom up the Iguassu River and take you right underneath the waterfalls. Without doubt the highlight of our stay, though, was the helicopter trip over the Falls. What an extraordinary ten minutes that was… Soaring high above 275 waterfalls with nothing but wilderness and forest stretching out in every direction. Spectacular.

And in fact, that’s the feeling you’ll be left with when it’s finally time to pack up and leave the wonders of the Hotel das Cataratas behind. That it’s a truly exceptional place. The staff are kind and courteous and impeccably trained, the hotel runs so smoothly you can’t even hear it, and the atmosphere makes you feel instantly at home, and delightfully relaxed. Explore the Falls, immerse yourself in nature, relax in your decadent room or simply lounge by the pool. The choice is yours. But rest assured you won’t wonder if you came to the right hotel. The Hotel das Cataratas is the only hotel in Iguassu Falls. Of that you’ll be convinced. Guaranteed.


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